Yohji Yamamoto: Listening to Eros


Calm , beauty and – yes – glamour was the feeling at Yohji Yamamoto’s show, although the designer himself, uncharacteristically frisky as he came out on the runway, said just one cryptic word: “Eros.”

There was indeed a subtle sexual charge to these graceful women, stepping out to the plink of Tibetan music, wearing sinuous black coats traced with white stitches and with an occasional glimpse of flesh through a triangle cut out under the arms. They wore sunglasses throughout the show, their hair caught back loosely as they strode on black patent lace-up shoes over the white hill of a runway.

The show was quintessentially Yohji, in that the romantic glamour was spelled out in ankle-length skirts with an occasional sculpted hat. The rigor of Yamamoto – no fuss, no frills but absolute attention to detail – is the essence of his work. The collection was played out in black and white, but the pale colors were a meld of ivory, cream and white for dresses in textured fabrics. It was not “new” in that the designer did not make any radical departure but as the show closed with a handful of sporty pieces, marked with white handprints, these deceptively simple clothes showed the designer in fine form.